Interior Painting
Chick
here to get the facts on brushes and rollers
By H.D. Nelson
Interior painting
is probably the least expensive (per square foot) home improvement
project you can do.
Paints
There are three types of paint used for interiors: flats, satins,
and semi-gloss. Flats and satins are generally used in living rooms,
bedrooms, and hallways. A word of caution: flat paints do not stand
up well in high traffic areas and they do not clean up well if dirt
or smudges appear. It is not recommended to use flats in high-moisture
areas such as kitchens or bathrooms. Satins and semi-glosses work
best in these areas. Satins have washability and semi-glosses have
scrubability. A good choice for interiors is an acrylic blend, which
is durable and provides the most service.
Practically all
paints today are latex (water based). Always use two coats of paint
no matter what the salesperson or the can says. Two coats are much
better than one. You are only putting on 1.5 ml per coat. Don’t
cut back on the coverage — you want your project to look beautiful,
so don’t stretch the paint.
Ignore Warranties
Look for sales, but buy the most expensive paint that you can afford.
It is okay to buy quarts for samples, but for the actual project,
I recommend 1- or 5 gallon buckets. If your project requires more
than 1 gallon, you must “box” or mix the paint from gallon
to gallon to assure consistent paint from gallon to gallon. This is
why the larger quantity of 5-gallon buckets is recommended. Remember,
when you are ordering the paint double the square footage you will
paint because you will be applying two coats.
Materials
Use canvas dropcloths to cover floors and other surface areas. Never
use disposable brushes. They streak, lose hairs in your work surface,
and will make your expensive paint job look bad. I recommend a nylon
or polyester blend brush. The same goes for roller covers; never use
the throw-away kind as they will make your paint project look shoddy.
Spend a little more for the roller cover. It will leave a more consistent
job, reduce splatters, and will make your project look professional.
A reputable paint dealer can help you select the proper roller thickness
and the proper size brush for your project.
Start-up
Here
are some basic steps to follow that will make the job much easier.
Ninety percent of your job will consist of surface preparation. If
you prepare properly, you will have a professional-looking paint job.
Surfaces to be repainted must be cleaned before paint application.
A mild TSP wash will remove dirt, smudges, cooking oils, etc. Spend
the time to wipe down all surfaces, including the ceiling, which can
easily be done with a sponge mop. Next de-gloss shiny surfaces. Paint
will not stick to surfaces unless the shiny areas are first roughed
up. There are excellent liquid de-glossers with pleasant smelling
citrus blends available. Homes built before 1978 could contain lead
paint. See the box below for links on dealing with lead paint.
The next step
is to remove nails and thumbtacks. Fill in holes with a lightweight
spackle. If you spackled a big area, use a can of spray texture on
the area so that it will match your existing wall texture. It is a
good idea to put primer over the areas that you have spray textured.
This will make for an even absorption of paint.
Painting
When painting, it is a good idea to do your cut-in (corners and edges)
with a tapered brush first and then use a roller for the larger areas.
Always work from the top down. Use a wooden or collapsible handle
for your roller. It is best to use a “roller ramp” in a
five-gallon bucket rather than a roller paint pan. Try to assemble
all your tools, drop cloths, and paint so that you don’t have
to leave, clean your brushes, and start over again. Be sure to properly
vent your work area.
Clean-up
Clean the base of your paint brush and the rollers with soap and water
immediately after use. Then put the paint brush back into the sleeve
that it came with when you bought it. This will help keep the bristles
in good shape. For the rollers, once washed, I like to stand them
on end to dry.
Where
to find information on lead paint.
The
LeadLine provides Oregon callers with information and referrals
for local lead programs and services. The LeadLine can be reached
at (503) 988-4000 or log on to www.leadline.org
to learn more.
U.S. Department
of Housing and Urban Development, Office of Lead Hazard Control
has a free field guide, "Lead Paint Safety, A Field Guide for
Painting, Home Maintenance, and Renovation Work." To order a
copy of this guide call 1-800-424-5323 or download a copy from
the HUD Office of Lead Hazard Control website at www.hud.gov/offices/lead.
United
States Environmental Protection Agency, Office of Pollution
Prevention and Toxics offers a free pamphlet, "Reducing Lead
Hazards When Remodeling Your Home." You can download a copy
and browse this site for more free information www.epa.gov/lead. |
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How to
Dispose of Paint Cans
Cans
of dried paint and empty paint cans can be discarded in the
garbage but first you must remove the lid. If not removed the
garbage handlers will not take the cans. If there is a very
small amount of paint left in the can (latex only), remove the
lid, let it dry and dispose of it in the garbage. Bring partially
full or full cans of paint to Metro. Or you can share your paint
with friends. For information on where to recycle paint near
you, call Metro at 503-234-3000. |
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