HOW-TO
Replacing a Front Enry Door
AFTER |
BEFORE |
 
Skill
level: one hammer novice, five hammers experienced. |
Tools and Materials:
Hammer, pneumatic nailer and 6' level (both can be rented), measuring tape, caulk gun, drill with drill bits, miter saw, exterior caulk (Vulkem® polyurethane sealant) and painters caulk, cedar door shims, utility knife, chisel, large screw driver or prybar, window and door non-expanding insulating foam sealant. Lock set. Exterior and interior trim.
Outside Services:
If you need to have a door blank pre-hung and lock set set-up and drilled, Truax Builders Supply can frame a blank for $175-$225. Included is doorjamb with door stop, weather stripping, and a metal sill. If you would like to have your door replaced, Truax can do it for $350-$500 depending on the door opening condition. Truax does not re-construct an opening. |
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By Paul Olson
Installing a pre-hung door is one of those things that a carpenter learns by doing. It becomes instinctual and automatic after a while, but the steps involved can be analyzed and explained so that almost anyone can understand the basic process. If you want to do it yourself, I advise you to try a few inexpensive doors first (such as interior doors), so you can get a feel for the job and learn to trouble-shoot some of the surprises that may come up.
In this case, we are replacing a front door that had been improperly installed back in 1980s. The previous installer had incorrectly installed a door that was too small for the original opening and used the wrong “swing” so that someone entering the house came in facing the wall rather than the more welcoming view of the living room. A door should usher the person into the house in a convenient way, and this one did not.
In addition to installing a door that was 6’8” high in an opening 7’ high, the previous installer had put the door in off-center, which necessitated completely re-framing the opening. (Figure 1) The house was built in 1909 and originally had a large, stately door. The old replacement door was an inexpensive metal door with a simulated stained glass window (or “light”). The new owners of this house opted to install an attractive craftsman-style fir door with dentil work and six individual “lights.” However, they decided to use a standard 6’8” door rather than one that would fit the original 7’ frame, and since the old jamb had been completely removed back in the 1980s, the header height had to be re-framed too. (Figure 2) Normally a door is framed two inches wider and two inches taller than “call out” (the dimensions of the actual door slab), so if the door is a standard 3’ x 6’8”, the framing should be exactly 3’2” x 6’10”. This allows for the ¾” jamb on each side and the top of the door as well as the sill at the bottom of the door. It also
leaves room for the requisite shims.
The framing should be checked for plumb, using a 6' level on both sides and front and back. (Figure 3) If the framing is not perfectly plumb, it is best to adjust it if possible, but minor imperfections can be adjusted for during the actual door installation. However, checking the plumb is a good way to prepare mentally for any necessary adjustments so you can anticipate them.
Once the framing is complete, the frame and door can be moved into position. Since the sill will be sitting on the floor framing, it should be caulked thoroughly to prevent air infiltration.
I normally use a pneumatic nailing gun to secure the door into the approximate position I want it to be when the installation is complete. I shoot one nail through the “stop” at each hinge and one nail at the equal spots on the strike side of the door. I hold the door approximately ¼” from the framing by using a long screwdriver. I then use the long screw driver to maneuver the jamb into closer alignment with the door slab (Figure 4) so the gap between the door and jamb is equal on both sides and on the top of the door. (Figure 5) The six nails function as temporary shims and hold the door approximately where I want it. I don’t worry too much about the sill at this point because that is adjusted last. Further adjustments are made by installing cedar shims that act to wedge the frame into the exact alignment I desire. (Figure 6)
It is best to place shims behind each hinge and at the knob/deadbolt. On the knob side I use three or four sets of shims to secure the jamb in exactly the position I want. More sets of shims may be required. (Figure 7) Slide one shim from each side so that the overall width of the set is equal. (Figure 6) Nail through the shims on both sides of the jamb “stop” to hold them securely in place. (Figure 8) Cut the shims off flush to the jamb using a utility knife or backsaw. (Figure 9)
Install the cedar trim on the outside of the door. (Figure 10) Nail into the framing and into the door jamb about every 18 inches. This fastens the trim permanently and also further secures the door into position. Make sure the nails don’t “blow” out the jamb by angling them slightly toward the framing.
Spray non-expanding foam into all gaps from the inside starting from the bottom up. Do not use expanding foam because this will move the door jamb and undo all the adjustments. (Figure 11) Install the interior trim in the same manner as the exterior. (Figure 12)
In this case, the door slab was pre-hung by Truax Builders Supply and was also fitted for the knob and deadbolt that was also purchased through Truax. Carefully read the instructions for installing the knob and deadbolt. You will have to do some re-butting (carving) of the strike plates since each knob set is unique. Use a very sharp utility knife to outline the plates and a very sharp chisel to remove the wood where necessary on the door and jamb. (Figure 13)
Use a center punch to prepare the holes for the screws. (Figure 14) Install the bolts and plates securely, being careful not to strip the screws out. Once the knob and deadbolt are installed and functioning correctly, adjust the strike plate to hold the knob bolt tightly in the hole so that the door presses firmly against the compression weather stripping without any gaps. There is a little tab with a slot for a screwdriver on most strike plates. (Figure 15) Adjust the sill so no light can be seen coming under the door.
The door is now ready for the application of paint or finish on the trim. Caulk the exterior prior to painting, and if the interior is to be painted, do the same there.
Skändia Design & Constructionis a design and consultation firm. Skändia Construction is a general contractor. They can be reached at 503-698-3444 or visit skandiaremodeling.com for more information.
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