"Plunging"
into the History of Your Bathroom Trends in
Bath Design before World War II
By Anne
DeWolf
Its usually
the smallest room in the house and a close second to kitchens when
it comes to being updated. When determining how to renovate the bathroom,
its important to research to learn what is most appropriate
for the style of your home and of course what fits your lifestyle
and budget.
The outhouse
comes in-house
With the newly perceived need for hygiene and the use of in-house
plumbing, the wash closet (as it was commonly referred to) became
a standard room in the urban home during the end of the 19th century.
The earliest bathrooms
were more antiseptic and strictly functional by design. It was the
most used room in the house, but Victorian etiquette made it the least
talked about. The plumbing fixtures were white glazed or enameled
tubs, toilets, sitting tubs and sinks with nickel hardware. Smooth,
hard, and white surfaces were chosen because they were considered
sterile. White-glazed porcelain tile was installed on the floors,
in shower basins, and on the walls. White Carrara marble slabs were
the preferred choice for counter tops. Cabinetry and trim work were
painted in high-gloss white paint. If the walls were not tiled they
were usually painted white. Rarely a pale color was introduced as
an accent. More commonly black accents created a pattern or a border
in the hexagon mosaic tile floors or the subway tiles on the walls.
Recessed medicine cabinets and vanity cabinets provided storage. Linen
storage was provided near the bathrooms in hallway built-ins. The
light fixtures were surface mounted on walls and ceilings and matched
the polished nickel of the plumbing hardware.
As for the loo,
originally just high-tank toilets were available, but due to rapid
progress in the redesign of the toilet, a low-tank version was created
and both were readily available. Tanks were metal lined and made of
oak, ash, cherry, walnut, and sometimes mahogany. The high-tank toilet
was a popular choice until WWI and then the ceramic toilets we are
familiar with became the standard.
Awash in color
Functionality gave way to aesthetic appreciation in the beginning
of the 1930s. The style of the 30s is called Deco and introduced
geometric shapes and patterns as well as colors such as sea foam green,
pink, pale yellows, and robins-egg blue. Ceramic or glass tile was
the dominant choice for wall, floor, and counter surfaces. It was
during this time that color was introduced into the plumbing fixtures
and they tended to match the color of the tile and the walls. Often
the main color was accented either with black and/or one other color,
which created bright and dramatic effects. The shape of the tiles
used on the walls and counters tended to be square tiles either straight
run or on the diagonal. Accents were created by narrow bull-nose tile
or diagonal cut tile. Glass tiles on the walls achieved a beautiful
jewel effect. On the floors the mosaic tile changed to larger hexagon
mosaic tile, multi-colored squares and rectangles or linoleum. Vanity
cabinets and counters had rounded corners. The cabinets were mainly
built of wood but sometimes they were made of painted metal. Chrome
was introduced for the hardware. Often handles for faucets, door and
drawer knobs were made of pale pastel-colored glass. Chrome medicine
cabinets with integrated sidelights, hidden toothbrush storage, and
recessed toilet paper holders were fun accessories.
Privy to the
past
When remodeling or creating a bathroom in the styles of the first
four decades of the last century a couple of approaches can be taken.
The first is the purists approach, in which case the number-one
point of caution is to keep current codes in mind. There are many
sources for antique light and plumbing fixtures that sell refurbished
items but there are also places that will sell you salvaged product
in its dated condition. Light fixtures have to be rated for damp locations
and plumbing fixtures have to comply with current codes. They have
to have pressure balance valves, mixers, and have to meet clearance
requirements. Also venting and current electrical has to be provided
in the remodeled space. Having to deal with the challenges of installing
an antique toilet for example can be quite extensive but rewarding.
There are shops that specialize in resurfacing tubs, toilets, and
sinks. The new surface on a plumbing fixture will never be as durable
as the original but will make the fixture look beautiful again.
The glazed hexagon
mosaic tile for the floors of that time is hard to come by. The glaze
used to be of a thinner consistency and created a flat surface. Today
the thicker glazing inherently creates a slight bevel. Unless one
can find salvaged tile that is still in good condition the tiles will
look different. If a bathroom has the original tile, cleaning the
grout and living with a few imperfections is the best choice. Subway
or other ceramic tile or glass tile for the walls is easy to come
by. Differences in glazes, shades and shapes between the new and the
old will be apparent but are minor. Glass tile is becoming very popular
again and is readily available in beautiful colors and shapes. Cabinetry
that is true to style and fits within these usually small spaces generally
has to be custom built. Due to the popularity of the bungalow
bathroom medicine cabinets and small storage cabinets can be purchased
pre-made.
The second approach
to creating a bathroom in the styles of the first part of the 20th
century is choosing products that are new but have been designed with
the proportions and details of that time in history. Today most American
plumbing manufacturers have a line of antique-looking plumbing fixtures.
The Deco style is a little bit harder to come by. One can substitute
its clean lines with more modern designs if the finish is either polished
nickel or chrome. The same goes for the light fixtures.
It is important
to understand that it is not necessary to copy, but that proportions,
textures, and colors of a period get incorporated into the design.
Unglazed mosaic tile floors are readily available and create a similar
look to the original glazed tile. The grout between the hexagon tiles
tends to be difficult to keep clean. Using a darker shade for the
grout will prevent future stains from showing. Choosing an entirely
different material like Marmoleum for the floor or a solid surface
for the counter to prevent having to deal with the grout altogether
are options that can be integrated into the design. Looking at materials
and architectural details that were used in different parts of the
home is a good way of knowing what was available and representative
of the period.
The older bathrooms
tended to be quite small and if there is no opportunity to gain space
by adding on or moving walls it might be worth considering replacing
tubs with walk-in showers with shower curtains. Also, pedestal sinks
were common during the
40 years discussed here. They take up less visual space than a vanity
cabinet but provide no storage. The colors of the 30s were beautifully
bright but could also be quite oppressive in the small spaces. Sometimes
introducing colors in the patterns and accents and keeping the rest
neutral can make a space seem larger. A generous amount of mirrors
as well as plenty of light will also make a space feel larger.
Researching and
recreating these periods is great fun but do not forget to put a personal
note in your space.
Anne DeWolf
is co-owner and designer of Arciform LLC Design/Restore/Remodel. Arciform
is a design-build company specializing in the restoration and remodel
of pre-World War II homes in the greater Portland area. For further
information, please contact Anne at 503- 493-7344 or logon to www.oldhomesnewlife.com
to view Arciforms portfolio.
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Maintaining
a Tile Installation
By Neal Aronowitz
There is no more durable home surfacing material than tile.
With proper maintenance, a new stone or ceramic tile installation
will remain beautiful and endure for decades.
As the saying
goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure
and in maintaining a tile installation, following a few simple
steps will prevent deterioration and protect your investment.
Clean regularly: Prevent long-term build up of dirt and
soot by cleaning thoroughly on a weekly basis. The best cleaners
are commercial ceramic and stone cleaners available at most
tile showrooms.
Re-grout: Grout is the weak link in any installation
and most repairs are caused by grout failure leading to leaks
and eventually water damage behind the wall. Cracks should be
properly filled immediately before they advance and spread,
particularly at the corners.
Re-caulk: The joint where the wall and floor meet in
a shower or tub surround need to stay well caulked, preferably
with a 100% silicone caulk. Check the caulk around the showerhead
and faucets as well.
Re-seal: The true key to a long-lived tile installation
is to reseal the grout on an annual basis with a quality impregnator
type sealer. As well as being the best defense against water
damage, this will keep the grout as well as the entire installation
looking fresh and new for years to come.
Neal Aronowitz is the president of Neal Aronowitz Tile &
Stone, Inc., a tile contracting company. He can be reached at
503-775-9300. |
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